Saturday, November 24, 2012

The Ol' Sockeye Salt-Bath


Preservation is not a term solely used in the craft of cookery, but more importantly it doubles as a moniker that is associated with the mastery and art of remaining a long term participant in this world--aka-staying alive.  In Alaska, the aspiration for ‘self-preservation' is greater than the form we associate with the kitchen.  
For now though, I'm going to keep it light and less dark--aka-teach you how to cook the best damn fish you'll ever taste and present to your loved ones.  

There are countless terms associated with this preparation.  I’ve heard it defined as a salt-rub, salt-bake, or salt-crusted fish. The lingo I choose is a salt-cave fish.  This preparation I will note is excellent with both soft-boned and hard-boned fish.

*Soft-boned: Salmon, Trout
*Hard-boned: Snapper, Rockfish, Bass

My personal preference tends to be a soft-boned fish due to the higher fat content, which if properly executed, melts through the flesh and yields a more succulent and moister final product.

So here we go… and don’t make this more complicated than it needs to be.  This isn’t about exacts.  Standard ratio and ‘rules’ to live by-

NOTES

* 2 egg whites for every pound of salt needed. (Kosher salt)
* 1-2 pounds of salt for every 1 pound of fish (3 # fish = 3-4 # salt) roughly.
* Enough herbs and/or toasted spices to make the salt look beautiful and       
   littered with colorful confetti (your choosing). No such thing as too much.   
   Once you learn the preparation you’ll know better how to adjust flavors 
   and amounts.
 *Flavor suggestions- Fresh dill & lemon zest
                                   Toasted coriander seed & orange zest
                                   Toasted Allspice, clove and cinnamon
                     
NEEDS

1 Whole Fish (3-6 lbs)
Kosher Salt (as needed)
Eggs (use WHITES only)
Herbs
Spices

METHOD

1.    In large bowl, place your salt and herb/spice mixture. Mix well.
2.    Using a whisk or mixer, whip egg whites to a med-firm peak. 
3.    Fold salt mixture into egg whites. The consistency you’re going for is similar to wet sand.  You want the ‘sand’ to almost hold shape when squeezed in your hand, but not run through your fingers or easily crumble apart.
4.    On a sheet tray (preferably lined with parchment paper) lay and pack down a 1/4 -1/2 inch layer of ‘sand’ slightly larger than the shape of the fish.
5.    Season the cavity very lightly with salt and pepper and fill the cavity of the fish with herbs and sliced citrus of your choosing. 

** Important Note- Use the rest of the citrus you used for the zest.  If not…make yourself a cocktail with the remaining fruit.  You might need it if this whole thing goes awry.

6.    Lay fish on bed of ‘sand’ and cover completely-packing the
salt tightly to the contour of the fish as to create a cast or mummy like presentation. *Note- it is optional to cover the head or tail of the fish.  If you feel you are running out of ‘sand’, leave these uncovered.  It can often boost the presentation- of course depending on how attractive of a fish you’ve chosen.
   
7.    Bake in 350F-375F oven until the salt cave just lightly           
begins to brown. (avg. 30-35 minutes).  Remove from the oven and let rest for 5-10 minutes. *Note- it is important not to let this rest for too long.  Your salt ‘cave’ is filled with steam, and is a harsh environment for the flesh of your fish.  It has the potential for drying out your fish, thus defeating the purpose of this whole procedure.

8.    After the resting period-using a knife, crack an opening along
the lower portion of your salt cave, and lift as if opening a casket to reveal the fish.  With a paring knife, make a small incision perpendicular to the fish at the base of the tail, and peel skin back slowly towards the head.  The above picture is what will be revealed. 

9.    Serve by lightly lifting on portions of the flesh.  After top fillet has been conquered, very gently pull the head along with the vertebrae of the fish upwards.  This should carry the bones along with it, thus revealing the lower fillet for your eating pleasure.  Bon Appetit.

CLOSING THOUGHTS

*Use your fingers.
*Drink an Albarino with it
*Serve with compound butter
*If you don’t know what a compound butter is, look it up
*Don't eat the salt cave. 






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